House from Coconut Wood
Wood of Coconut stems is one that is widely used building material in Indonesia. From the simplest form of stilt houses to modern homes designed specifically using coconut wood. I show this paper to provide fresh ideas for the readers of other alternative materials that can be used buildings. This idea can also be used as the basis for the idea of designing a gazebo made from coconut wood.
The price was much cheaper when compared with opposite wood. Wooden houses made of coconut wood costs about US$140 – US$ 200 / m2 compare when using the timber opposite the price could be above US$ 4,000 / m2.
Home design I created two floors, ground floor consisting of open space, kitchen and bathroom. If you want more privacy, open space can be closed to the surrounding glass. The upper floor comprises two bedrooms and one bathroom, also a space that could be used as a television room.
Building area is 35 m2 ground floor, upper floor was the same breadth of 35 m2. this house is ideally set up on land that is the extent of at least 120 m2.
For construction house from coconut wood use knock down system, so the house can be disassembled to be moved without damaging its components. To do it takes about two months to manufacture, and two weeks for assembly and cost about US$12.000,-
Leveling The House
If t You didn’t mention how or why the house is out of level. Has the foundation failed? Have the beams or sills rotted? Are the floors sagging or weak? Without those answers, it’s pretty hard to give you any specific answers but here are a few guidelines.
he whole house is out of level or uneven due to the foundation, you will probably be best served having a house mover pick the whole house up, have the foundation repaired/replaced and then having it reinstalled on the new foundation. If the foundation is OK but the structure of the house is failing, you may be able to have it repaired in place.
In any event, you first need to determine why the building is out of level. A structural engineer or architect with experience in this type of work is the place to start. Call around and ask if they have done this type of work and ask for references. Call the references. Make sure they have done something similar. This is pretty specialized work. The professional will be able to advise you as to how he sees the repair taking place and what contractors you will need. Have the professional inspect the work before you make final payment so you can be sure it was done per his directions. That way if something goes wrong or the repair doesn’t work, you can look to the professional as well as the contractor for relief. Make sure the professional has Errors & Omissions insurance and get a certificate from his agent with you listed as the certificate holder.
As far as what the effects of leveling the house will be is equally tough because I don’t know how far out of level it is and how long it has been this way. The house is 50 years old and assuming it has been going “out of level” for much of that time, the effects of the shifting have been fixed over the years. Once you level it, doors won’t close properly, ceramic tile will probably crack, plaster will crack, and windows may cease to work. You really need to do a cost/benefit analysis before you undertake this. If it’s serious enough to consider “leveling” then there will probably be lots to fix or replace when you’re done.
Split Level House Floor
Split level house floor plans consist of multiple tiers which intersect one another throughout the home. Usually, they’re designed with 3 floors, each new level beginning about half way between the other’s floor and ceiling. So, in a typical split level house, you’ll walk up a porch and enter into the main level, consisting of a kitchen and formal living room. Built off this main area, you’ll see two short staircases, one descending into a large family room and one ascending to an upstairs hallway which leads to the bathrooms and bedrooms. Though an interesting set-up, you may be asking yourself: Why cut up your home? Why go out of your way to build such a shifting blueprint?
Though a split level house floor plan may seem confused and divided, there is actually a sound reason behind the design.
First off, if you live on a small plot of land, live in an un-graded or sloped area, or are simply cramped between too many other homes, then this set-up makes for a very economical use of space: small multiple stories instead of full-size floors.
Secondly, many homeowners who feel the need to build small invest in ranch homes, but in terms of size, a split level house gives you the efficiency of a ranch with the elegance of a two-story.
Thirdly, and most importantly, a split level house is more affordable compared to full-story homes.
Though we’ve described the typical split level house (3-way-splits), there are many other unique layouts out there that would qualify as well:
Bi-level: This layout consists of two stories. When entering the home, you step into an area between the two floors; a foyer that immediately opens up to two staircases, one taking you up to the kitchen, living room and bedrooms, one leading you down into a partially submerged basement/family room.
4-Way: Using the same design as a 3-way-split, there is sometimes a fourth addition below the lower family room: a partially excavated basement (which is great for regions with high water tables) that can be finished off or used as storage.
Raised Ranch: It uses the same layout as a ranch, except half the house is slightly raised to form an upper story for extra bedrooms and baths.
5 Steps Before Build a House
Build a new home begins long before the foundation is pour. To avoid costly mistakes during the construction process, start with these five important steps. As you move from dream house to real house.
1. Plant Your Budget
First to think about how much you can afford to spend and how much building your new home is likely to cost. Probability is you will need a construction loan and a mortgage. It’s not too early to find out what size loan you qualify for. Also, knowing the approximate costs will help you modify your building plans to meet your budget.
2. Choose Your Land
Whether you are building your home in a suburban development or a site with sweeping ocean views, you will almost always need to choose the land before you select floor plans or other details. You (and any pros you hire) will need to investigate factors such as soil condition, drainage, zoning and building codes in the region.
3. Line up Your Team
Except you are a homesteader, you’ll require a team of experts to design and construct your house. Key players will include a builder, an excavator, a surveyor and a home designer or an architect. Many homeowners begin by selecting the builder or contractor. That pro then selects other members of the team. But, you may also option to hire an architect or designer first.
4. Pick a Plan
Lots of new homes are built using stock plans from a catalog. The builder or a home designer may make minor modifications in room size, window style or other details. A custom-designed home, on the other hand, is created specifically for the family which will live there. In most cases, custom-designed homes require the services of a licensed architect. Whether you opt for a stock or a custom design, you will be wise to choose a plan that will meet your needs for many years to come.
5. Negotiate s Contract
Be there sure to get a written contract which has been signed and dated by both the builder or contractor and the architect or designer. A contract for new home construction will describe the project in detail and include a listing of all the parts to be included in the house. Remember to amend the contract if you or your team makes any changes to the project later on.
Using Geothermal Energy for Heating and Cooling House
A house heating costs are very expensive. To minimize the cost of home heating, the utilization of geothermal energy as a source of home heating and cooling could be an option In the case of gas-electric heating, no burning is required. This leads to remarkable energy efficiency compared to normal fossil fuel boilers.The heating and cooling the house is just the beginning, there are some options that might be interested in
Add a geothermal system with a generator will provide hot water hot water on demand, and replace the old hot water boiler. In the summer of your hot water could be “free”, as the heat would be away from home geothermal power plant. Or do you avoid it on the kitchen tiles, floor heating provides heat from geothermal heating and cooling system.
Whether you’re heating or cooling your home, these systems are a wise investment for your home and personal comfort.
Windows Strom
The entire point behind storm windows is their intrinsic energy efficiency. The extra barrier they provide helps insulation. Their low-emissive panes block unsafe UV rays from entering the house and impede additional heat transfer. And they also protect against any seeping air flow which may occur. Though often forgotten about or ignored, storm window frames are an important part of any window unit and must be paid attention to throughout the year.
Types of Storm Window Frames
Though often prefabricated, pre-hung, and standardized to fit any traditional opening (double-hung, casement, egress, etc.), there are different materials you may want to consider when it comes to their construction, each coming with their own pros and cons:
Aluminum: Aluminum is the most popular. It’s light yet strong, often inexpensive, and easy to install. However, since metal is a great conductor of energy, it quickly transfers heat towards the home, making it a poor insulator.
Vinyl: These are made with polyvinyl chloride which contains UV stabilizers. Since these windows are installed on the exterior, they take a lot of abuse from the sun and rain, so these stabilizers keep the vinyl from breaking down (though if they’re not already white in color, their shade will fade). And though they’re better insulators, they’re not easy to find, a bit more expensive, and they can expand and warp at high temperatures.
Wood: They’re great for historical houses if you want to retain that authentic look. However, it ages quickly. And it expands and contracts according to weather conditions, so if installed during the winter they may not close easily in the summer, and if installed in summer they may fit loosely in winter. Plus, they require more components in their construction. This makes them heavier and thicker, which can create storage problems and interfere with the view or incoming natural light (but also means less heat transfer).
Correcting Condensation
Condensation is a problem in many units. If air enters into the area between the panes, moisture quickly builds up. However, storm window frames are equipped with weep holes at the bottom so condensation has a way to slide off the interior glass and escape back outside. But if it becomes a reoccurring problem, inspect the weep holes to make sure they’re clear of debris. Or, you may want to think about permanent installation. Though people often want to remove the windows for routine cleaning, you could also screw, caulk, or weather strip the framing into place for a better seal.
Repair and Replacement
The biggest issue with storm window frames is their ability to open. If they don’t slide easily, clean out the surrounding tracks and remove any dirt, dust, or debris. Also, rub around the framing with steel wood to remove any possible corrosion and apply some silicon lubricant around its edges (but make sure to keep it off the glass and latches to avoid sticky smudges). In older homes, once the house shifts into place, the tracks may bind up. Therefore, remove the entire window and readjust it. In order to remove it, you may have to cut along its edges if it’s painted into place or use a screwdriver if it’s bolted into the sash. Or if you have a strange sized window, you may want to replace it with a new product. And these can even be custom-made if needed in order to fit any sized opening, such as bay or picture windows.
The U-Factor for replacement windows
Modern windows rely on a wide array of technology to realize a level of energy efficiency as high as five times that of traditional windows. A basic understanding of thermal replacement window ratings will help you choose the window that’s best for you without blindly relying on a sales pitch.
U Factor rating
An organization called the National Fenestration Ratings Council (NFRC) has developed a rating system based on the U factor. The U factor is the rating most homeowners look at first and for good reason. This rating measures the heat loss that occurs through the window. Most homeowners choose to install thermal replacement windows because of the heat loss that occurs in the winter with their old windows. Generally speaking, windows all have a U factor between 1.3 and .2, and the lower the number, the better.
Window Type U Factor Ratings
- Old metal casement window 1.3
- Good quality single-pane window 1.0
- Good single-pane with storm window .6
- Double-pane with low-E glass .4
- Triple-pane with low-E glass .25
Window Smart Glass: A Solar Light Switch
Anyway you hear a home remodeling idiom with the word smart in it, you know you’re about to learn the latest in new technology. They are in fact becoming increasingly popular, especially amongst commercial development, which means that soon they’ll be showing up in the private sector as well. When a product is smart it simply means it is planned with an auto-intelligence capable of operating a single task. And the same goes for smart glass: instead of relying on window treatments to block the light and control the sun’s solar penetration.
How does Work?
Often referred to as switchable glass, these window panes dim and brighten at will. When you want sun to shine through your windows, simply flip a switch to turn off the tint. You want to open a room, another flip and the windows will blur, become opaque, or slowly darken. Though they all perform the same task there are several types of smart glass out on the market. One of the original forms is photo chromic technology which doesn’t require any manual operation. Similar to sunglasses, these panes immediately tint when the sun hits, which is efficient since they don’t call for any electricity or hands-on direction (there’s also thermo tropic panes which dim according to heat levels). However, if you want a little sun to brighten a space in the home, you’re out of luck. Plus, during winter, when you want some solar heat gain, these panes won’t help you out.
In the last few years there have been several improvements in switchable glass :
- Suspended Particle Devices: A conductive glaze covers the two panes while in between countless particles lay suspended in a liquid film. When denied electricity, these free floating elements block out the light, darken a room, and remain opaque until the switch flips. Then, when the circuit is complete, they quickly line up and allow light to pass.
- Liquid Crystals: The same stuff found in your digital clocks and DVD displays can also be put in windowpanes. Working similarly to SPD technology, these products are black and white: turn it on, they line up to permit light; turn it off, you’re in the dark again.
- Electrochromic Glass: These panes work in the opposite manner: when a current is supplied, they darken and when electricity is withheld they become clear. Another unique aspect of these particular products is that they aren’t so black and white. Instead they are able to create varying levels of light penetration, allowing you to have total management of the sun’s power. Sometimes it takes several minutes to change shades and typically electro chromic glass works from the outside to the center, but it also doesn’t require a constant stream of electricity: once the initial tint is achieved, no more power is needed.
If window treatments achieve pretty much the same thing, you may be wondering about the point of these inventions. Well, first off, they’re incredibly energy-efficient. Unlike traditional drapes, blinds, and curtains that contain slats and openings, smart glass won’t allow any heat gain at all. Plus, they don’t need cleaning and they won’t fade in the sun like cloth and plastic. Also, they only require a small amount of energy to sustain their use (powering several windows at once uses less electricity than a single light bulb) and electro chromic glass hardly needs any electricity at all. Plus, like any technology that may appear over-the-top at first, it’ll probably come to replace every previous invention (for instance, when was the last time you used your VCR or tape deck?).
Choice what do you like!
Please choose a suitable design for your home
1.
home and pool
2.
house and pool II
3.
4.
beautiful landscape
Install a Graounding
Essential to avoid any risk of electric shock or worse, electric shock, the grounding frees users to experience current leakage. According to the French standard, all new homes must be equipped with grounding. For older homes lack of grounding, it is strongly recommended to install one.
Tools and materials required
An insulated screwdriver.
An electrician’s knife.
Cutting pliers.
Wire stripper.
A voltmeter.
Screws.
A shovel.
A drill.
TPC sheath.
An earth conductor 16mm ² or section of 25mm ² copper or galvanized steel.
A bar of measurement.
A ground rod or loop to bottom of the excavation.
A box of cement cover.
There are two types of earth. The ground rod, often used, can be added to all types of construction. It is a galvanized steel tube of 25 mm thick and of variable length, averaging 1.5 m. It also uses the loop to bottom of the excavation, a more effective solution than the post but can be implemented only during the construction of a dwelling, which severely restricts its use.
Step 1: the burial.
When you realize the earth, the other end of the cable must not already be connected, and when you plug the other end, the circuit breaker should not be engaged (we work here on the safety!).
Push the stake about 2m deep in a healthy place close to home. The soil for the planting should not be too dry or stony (unless the post is longer: there are extended). Like any electrical connection, that the stake should be visited: the eye must never be rendered inaccessible (but it can be in the grass).
Support the stake out of the ground with the clamp and lock the cement in the box to isolate it.
The clamp should be protected tale corrosion. To do this, wrap the putty.
Take out a conductive sheath of the box.
Step 2: set the bar of measurement.
The bar is measuring the junction between the patch panel and the earth. It must be accessible and must only be disassembled with a tool. Secure it by screwing to the wall, 30cm from the ground, not far from the dispatcher and the earth.
Step 3: connect the earth to the bar of measurement.
Calculate the length of ground wire needed to connect the earth to the dispatcher.
Attach the wires to the connection and the plug with the screws provided for this purpose.
If the earth is too far from the wall, change the driver in a sheath TPC.
Step 4: Connect the card to the terminal distribution.
For this step, use a primary driver of protection, over-green and yellow 25mm ².
Strip an inch both ends of the conductor.
Insert one end of the wire in the terminal distribution and do the same for the other end by securing the space provided on the measuring strip.
Step 5: check the quality of your grounding.
You cannot see for yourself the proper functioning of your system, so you have to hire a specialist. It is prohibited to use as grounding water pipes, gas or central heating, and the metal sheathing for electrical continuity of the pipes is not always guaranteed, especially when problems arise in the electrical circuit.
If the quality of the earth is insufficient, it is possible to place one or two, spaced about 2 m, interconnected to improve it. The connection between the measuring point and the bar will be sharing the same section as the son of the table of power protection, with a maximum of 16mm2.